Thanks for the info, my incubator instructions say "lift lid for 15 mins and spray" which I have been doing but have always thought this was too long so I will see how the hatching's go (if any) then just lift and spray next time to compare. You have about an hour to get it adjusted that way. You'll still need to leave the incubator lid closed during lockdown though...which is the 3 days before and after the expected hatch day. Expensive hygrometers are much more reliable but they need to be calibrated frequently to ensure they are reading properly. After the current geese eggs have hatched we will be putting another batch in and these we will just lift and spray to compare results. If your incubator does not have a digital control then you will have to monitor it more closely and may have to adjust it during incubation to avoid temperature changes. Our incubators that feature automatic humidity pumps are designed not to pump if the temperature is too low. Humidity is calculated by measuring the water vapor in the air. You can save eggs up to 10 days before setting them in the incubator, so it's ok to wait a few days rather than stagger every egg.Lisa. So if you’ve just plugged your incubator in and can’t figure out why the pump isn’t working, check to see if it’s reached 99.5°F. When it comes to chicken keeping mistakes though, some of them... Chickens can be expensive. They are then unable to hatch, and this is what is known as shrink wrapping. One of the easiest ways to measure the water vapor is by figuring out the Relative Humidity percentage, also known as RH%. Let’s put emphasis on the fact that RH% is based on the. This is a fairly common practice that is intended to raise the humidity in the incubator, but it is not something that we recommend. I have both chicken and duck eggs in my incubator. Most times when a chick is having a hard time hatching on it's own it is because it's simply too weak to survive anyway. Any thoughts on this? It shouldn't hurt to spray chicken eggs, unless your humidity is too high.Lisa. The second controllable factor is how much fresh air the incubator is able to draw in from the outside. So if you’ve just plugged your incubator in and can’t figure out why the pump isn’t working, check to see if it’s reached 99.5. Every single chick died. Use 2 different thermometers/hygrometers to check it. Because of this natural behavior the eggs are capable of tolerating short bouts of cooler temps. We are available by phone (888) 667-7009 or on, Complete Product Guide and Brochures available for download. Out of the four humidity is the most difficult factor to control and sometimes measure, which is why it is commonly misunderstood. I keep my incubator humidity around 15-30%. When you see the RH% on our incubators, for example, you are seeing the measurement of water vapor in the air compared with the maximum that could be absorbed at that temperature. Settings can get bumped, the incubator shell could have developed a crack during storage or the heating element could have burned out.

I'd be interested in hearing your results if you experiment with different times.Lisa. I didn't know about spraying duck eggs, but my hatch rates have been really high. I had a few styrofoam incubators like this and most homemade incubators are the same way.

Now that you know the dangers of incorrect humidity, let’s dig into how to measure it. The air sac changes slowly at first. The other way is with a Wet Bulb, and we explain both methods below. Our EX units come supplied with evaporating pads or blocks that can help to raise the humidity. °F is different from 50% humidity at 90°F.

1-321-267-7009 - Fax. Houses tend to be dryer during the winter and more humid during the summer, but that also depends on your local area. Low humidity will cause the eggs to lose too much weight, which means the air space will be larger than what is ideal. As the temperature and humidity can change … When you see the RH% on our incubators, for example, you are seeing the measurement of water vapor in the air compared with the maximum that could be absorbed at that temperature. A large air space also means the chick will be smaller than normal.

Am hatching Guinea fowls eggs but my incubator is over heating(39.2°)/will they survive? High humidity is necessary because of the membrane that the chicks must break through in order to hatch. Yes, it's boring and frustrating waiting for chicks to hatch, but we simply can't speed up the process. All of our incubators can be calibrated, so even if the accuracy does come into question that can be fixed with a simple phone call to our service department.

Now I'm going to tell you something very important about rising and falling incubator temperatures...low is better than high!

How to Achieve the Correct Humidity Levels, What happens if you’ve put water in both water channels and still cannot achieve the correct humidity level?

Cheap hygrometers can easily tell you what the RH% is, but how accurate are they? You want to make sure your incubator is holding steady before you add eggs to it. Lockdown On day 15, it is time to lockdown your eggs. What is your humidity during the first 18 days of incubation? Even if you don't count the coop, the feed and bedding are monthly expenses that add up a lot! The takeaway lesson from this is that if you find your incubator suddenly struggling to maintain correct temperature, err on the low side rather than the high side. Want information on raising chickens sent right to your email weekly? Sometimes in the case of shrink wrapping there isn't anything wrong with the chick and helping it break away from the dried membrane is all it needs. This also causes a lack of space, making it difficult for the chick to move around and break out of the shell. Here's how to avoid opening the incubator when raising humidity...use the incubators air vent holes. 1-321-267-6090 - Email: If you’ve ever incubated before (or even if you haven’t), you probably know that there are a lot of variables you need to keep track of. If you have been weighing your eggs then the weight loss should be right around 13-15%, and raising the humidity at the end will not significantly affect this. However, just opening it any time you want to is a recipe for disaster. When you raise or lower the room temperature it will affect the temperature inside the incubator.

Keeping the humidity at this level is a struggle for most Styrofoam incubators. If yes , then I would have to open it to turn those while other which I put early needs not to be turned ? These are no ordinary mistakes though. They are also available for purchase in our, If you have any questions about your incubator or anything mentioned in this article please feel free to contact us! When you’re checking your incubator humidity, therefore, it is very important to also note the temperature. If she has just pipped or only begun to zip I will not help.

Weight loss is not proportional to the change in air sac: it will be fairly constant. If you’ve noticed the conflicting information on the internet about humidity, you’ve come to the right place. A few years back in one of my online hatching-alongs, a new kid insisted on helping every chick hatch. We’ve done that here with the pink dots.

Each time you turn your eggs, check the temperature and humidity to ensure your incubator is working well.

A question, I leave (as you say) my incubator shut all the time when hatching chickens, now I am aiming to hatch some ducks and I read that after day 10 the the lid should be lifted for @ 10/15 mins a day and the eggs sprayed. YW!

Add water with a syringe through the straw during lockdown. Consult the hygrometer often! Out of the four humidity is the most difficult factor to control and sometimes measure, which is why it is commonly misunderstood. °F.

The following two tabs change content below. Due to the fact that our incubators are not air-tight, the ambient humidity will have an affect on the humidity inside the incubator. I.

Within a few months I needed more space so I moved up to 2 styrofoam incubators.

This goes along with the first point actually, but does deserve it's own mention. Powered by WordPress. We recommend raising the humidity during “lockdown,” or, the last few days of incubation. If you have any questions about your incubator or anything mentioned in this article please feel free to contact us! Opening up the incubator to help just adds to the lack of moisture problem for that chick and all the rest of the hatching chicks.

Are they drowning and if so what can I do ? It's possible, but the more the temperature spikes and the longer it stays elevated the less chance that the keets will hatch. The eggs were out on their own for 1 1/2 day. Get a tube or straw small enough to fit through the hole and put a pieces of sponge under the hole before lockdown. Be the first to know about new products and special offers. Stranger things have happened though, and guineas love to surprise you so I wouldn't give up on them just because of a temp spike.

So what happens if you don’t have a hygrometer, or you aren’t sure if your hygrometer is accurate? High humidity at the beginning of incubation can be corrected later on with lower humidity and vice versa. A good quality incubator should have a powerful temperature control where the temperature can be adjusted accordingly, and the accuracy is pretty much spot on.

You could put soaked towels in there and set a little water – like a butter dish in there works as well. This temperature and humidity should be maintained for the first 14 days. For virtually all birds, humidity needs to be higher at hatching than it was throughout incubation. When an egg is being hatched by a broody hen, she will leave the nest daily to eat.

About 10-14 days into incubation, start spraying your eggs once daily before closing the incubator lid after turning. Fresher eggs will sink because they weigh more, while old eggs will float because they have much more empty space in them. Since I started watching out for and avoiding these 4 incubation mistakes, my hatches have been much more successful! I don't leave the incubator open that long, but a few minutes while I spray and look them over. Our EX units come supplied with evaporating pads or blocks that can help to raise the humidity.

That all being said, the picture above is a guinea keet who tried to hatch feet first. This is called shrink wrapping.

I have issues with humidity in the beginning if lockdown such as being barely at 65..once some start to pip and eventually hstch the humidity spikes hight 85, 89....I leave off the little caps To get it down. As you can see, the egg is out of the incubator and I did pop the top on this one and she was perfectly fine. As mentioned above, our EX models come equipped with a humidity pump and internal hygrometer that make incubation a little less stressful. Adding too much moisture to the incubator to compensate for opening it can also cause the un-pipped eggs to not lose enough moisture. In this case the incubator temperature is set and remains steady. If you've tested your incubator for a few days as I recommended you'll know that your incubator temp holds steady. They almost always have some other problem that presented it itself after they were out of the shell, and helping them hatch only prolongs their suffering. We will tell you right now that if it is cheap and can’t be calibrated, you get what you pay for! It was heartbreaking and a hard lesson to learn for everyone.