or if GTX then 780 and 781. This is an untouched original front disc brake assembly from a 1970 Plymouth.

The master cylinder is cast in appearance and carries part numbers and date codes. Here is what you can find when you open up the brake drum. This twist is put into the bar during fabrication and is done to strengthen the bar.

a hint of which way they came out is look at all the grease, as you pull them out the back of the crossmember you can't avoid loading up grease on the other end. The actual components inside the brake drum are unique in color and appearance. At least it is clean and complete. They are black phosphate, not natural metal. Their correct function is much more important than their appearance. The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. The tab is near the center of the arm on 1970 B-Body cars. Note the bolt inserted from the bottom up.

Remove the four bolts connecting the steering column flange to the firewall. It is very difficult to move the boot over the front knuckle of the bar. The torsion bars were originally dipped in paint and have drip marks left by the thick paint. Notice the gold Cosmoline finish up to the knuckle.

Dropping the entire front suspension, which includes the crossmember with the engine and transmission, all together is actually recommended. Most of the time these are reusable. so we know left and right is important, but what about back to front? Label them for installation. Other than the sway bar mount positions, all the control arms interchange. Then add all the components to complete the front suspension.

No...Either way you install them front/back, they end up with the same directional twist. Press in the wear pads until they snap in place and then assemble the leaves and liners. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.

Then you can set them aside until you are ready to bolt them onto the rear axle and install everything as one unit into the car. Then have the rotor turned. Do not attach the torsion bars until the K-member is installed in the car. The back side of the assembly seems to be beyond saving. did you take them out? The first step in reassembly is the dust shield. One tip, don't tighten up the nut on the front of the lower A frame until you adjust your height. While the arm hangs from the knuckle, spray on a heavy coat of Eastwood’s Heavy Duty Anti Rust. When in place, install the torsion bars, adjust the height, torque all bolts to specification, and don’t forget the retaining clips. This is the heavy-duty 11-inch rear drum.

Notice the lack of original part numbers on the cylinder. Save your originals if you can, but it is not the end of the world if you have to replace them because they are not visible.

This close-up shows additional inspection marks. When both assemblies are completed install the clamps. All the castle nuts are three-prong versions from the factory except where the lower ball joint attaches to the wheel assembly. Brakes, Steering & Suspension. Install the lower strut rod and tighten the front nut.

Finish the lower ball joint, spindle, and attaching hardware. The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. The steering boxes attach to the K-member. I use a 1/2 inch extension bar , and tap forward until the bar is all the way in the frame. They contribute to a restoration that can compete at high-level car shows. Chapter 7 covers this removal process for a 383/440 big-block powertrain. Upon the vehicle being lowered over the powertrain and engine crossmember on the assembly line, the torsion bars were slid through their rearward perches on the mid-crossmember and fitted into the hexangular reliefs in the lower control arm pivot shafts. Just be sure to turn both anchor bolts up the same number of times. Differences in this block depend on whether you have manual drums, power-assisted drums, or front disc brakes. When removing the dash it works well if you have about a 3-foot piece of heavy wire to support the dash after you remove the five dash bolts. Be sure to install the dust boot cover onto the torsion bar so that when the bar is inserted into the crossmember of the frame, the boot is toward the front of the car and seals out any dirt or water. They are reproduced with a close appearance to the originals. This is why it is so important to get the bars installed on the correct side of the car. When you do, be sure to fog the last coat.

Most NOS or replacement upper control arms come painted black.

Welcome to our site! His kit includes zinc liners and heavy clamps.

Turning of the rotors is a must and hopefully you have enough metal left to use your originals. The parts are different on each unit and their appearance makes these units easy to tell apart. By using at least two C-clamps to hold the new “spring clamps” in place you can bend and secure the clamps with crisp corners and minimal dents in the surface of the clamps. Many inspection marks can be found on these cars’ front suspensions. The rear end assembly comes out significantly easier, and requires the use of two jack stands and a good floor jack. A novice may think it is time to put in the new bushing, but a closer look reveals that a metal sleeve is still in the control arm and another one is still on the pivot shaft. Note how the factory bent the cotter pins and used a blue inspection mark on the driver-side assembly. One of the first things you learn growing up working on cars is how to do a drum brake job. Follow the directions on the solution bottle to create the original finish. An old alignment guy trick, it minimizes the tension on the bushing until you need it. The left bar has two stripes, one about 71 ⁄2 inches and the other about 10 inches from the front of the bar. Even though a lot of pad is left on these shoes they must be replaced with new pads. Note the correct, original larger teeth on the adjuster. You can drill out the rubber in several places and then press out the bushing. Make sure that the shoulder is correctly against the K-member and that the pivot has been correctly pressed far enough into the lower control arm. The front suspension can be completely rebuilt without taking the entire front assembly and engine crossmember out of the car, but be prepared for a lot of time on your back or stooping low to the ground. The internal components of this unit are in really good shape and can be blasted and refinished correctly. https://p-s-t.com/c-1175853-suspens...ml#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, https://p-s-t.com/c-1145182-suspens...ml#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/b-bodies-only-member-discount.105048/, https://p-s-t.com/c-1175853-suspension-coil-springs-leaf-springs-torsion-bars-torsion-bars.html#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, https://p-s-t.com/c-1145182-suspension-shocks-coil-over-kits.html#!year=1965||make=PLYMOUTH||model=SATELLITE, (You must log in or sign up to reply here.). Of course, many choose to replace original factory equipment with aftermarket components to improve drivability characteristics, and this is also a worthwhile endeavor. You can buy a kit that includes tools to remove the bushings and a special socket to remove and install the ball joint if you plan to perform this process more times in the future. Do not blast the drum surface where the brake shoes contact the drum. These bolts and nuts on the tie-rod are incorrect. Filed Under: Mopar B-Body, Mopar Restoration, Mopar Tech Tips, © 2017 Mopardiy. You should have this unit completely rebuilt by a good shop. You can do the same if they are painted stainless. That reduces the shine and makes it almost impossible to tell if the part is painted or not. Companies sell complete kits to rebuild your front suspension but they do not have the same appearance as the original MOOG parts. Next, clean and reinstall the rubber bushings that the caliper bolts go through. After you have restored the entire front suspension assembly, the engine and transmission can also be attached. So if you have the originals be sure to save them. Messages: 67 Likes Received: 36. After that, the unit is ready for assembly. Make sure you have the correct master cylinder for your year and model of car. Jun 5, 2019 #1. pghjeeper Well-Known Member. Some guys leave the applicable numbers to the back so the bars can be identified if need be down the road (without being removed). Also as a member of the forum here you are eligible for the forum discount and free shipping within the US 48 states. If your drum does not have the extra-reinforced fins you probably have the smaller lowperformance brakes. Two pump styles were used on these cars: Federal or Saginaw.

They also have identification marks made with light brown paint. You also can paint them with chrome paint, but the finish does not last as well as plating does. Earlier cars did not have this extra sleeve. Then the upper control arms were attached to the body and eventually aligned.

Here is a side-by-side comparison of an original caliper bolt (upper) and a replacement caliper bolt (lower).