Mad About Paris, Much more than a guide
This small bistro far away from the city center and high up in Belleville has been all the rage in recent years. For the longest time it was one of those very special, top-secret addresses that the Parisian food lovers only passed on to which other in whispers. Now it’s no longer an inside tip. The big city guides have put Le Baratin on all their maps and it’s even mentioned in the red Michelin, drawing more and more tourists to Belleville and that’s not a bad thing (but don’t forget to book a table at least two days in advance!).
Charming Raquel Carena from Argentina, a highly talented autodidact who you can watch smoking cigarettes through the open kitchen door is the chef here and she has found her formula of offering good products at reasonable prices – and the wine selection is without a doubt one of the best in the whole city, with rare grapes and unfamiliar yet excellent producers from all the great French regions.
The menu consists of classics like joues de boeuf, beef cheeks, cooked in a pot-au-feu with vegetables. Fresh sardines are a starter here or quails served as a salad Escabèche style. A sautéed pork tenderloin can be very pleasant and if you’re lucky you’ll even find turbot listed on the menu.
On a good evening, you’re surrounded by nice people (making you forget the uninspired waiters) and the food can be close to excellent. In recent months though, the quality of cooking has been somewhat mixed to say the least. So it’s a guessing game here – but always worth trying.
Le Baratin3, rue Jouye-Rouve 75020 Paris +33 (0)1 43 49 39 70 Métro: Pyrénées Open everyday for lunch and dinner