Mad About Paris, Much more than a guide
Don’t expect any comfort from “Higuma”. Around lunchtime, you’ll stand on the street in a long queue unsure as to whether you will ever make it. Inside, the waiters will treat you no better than cattle to be fed, ordering you to the table next to the loo or they squeeze you in-between two grumpy Japanese diners at the bar. And yet: you should go there.
“Higuma” offers kind of a fast-food-action-cuisine, that’s why the seats at the bar are definitely to be preferred (come early or late to get one). Behind the counter, a real spectacle unfolds complete with blazing flames from the stoves, bouncing vegetables in dozens of woks and throatily shouting cooks with the air of chain-smokers on turkey.
After all, this is what an “open kitchen” should be.
Have your “Miso set” or “Shyoyu set” here, huge bowls of Ramen soup accompanied by some nice bites of gyoza, the Japanese pot-stickers we’d call pan-fried ravioli.
The latter are quite delicious at “Higuma”, the soup is only so-so, far too salty not only for Japanese palates, if you asked me. But who cares: the show is for free, and it’s a good one: “Higuma” is a place to feel urban, alive and pretty cool.
Needless to say, it’s a cheap eatery, and portions are huge. The set menu will cost you 10 Euros (13 US$) only, a real snap in Paris. Enjoy it with a jug of Asahi beer or just a nice cup of green tea. And please take a closer look once you’re done and settle the bill at the cash desk: there’s a kitschy bear-fights-fish sculpture on display worth studying…Higuma 32, rue Sainte-Anne 75001 Paris +33(0)1 47 03 38 59 Open for lunch and dinner Métro: Pyramides