Mad About Paris, Much more than a guide
Photo: © MAP
They call it a „cantine gourmande“ which indicates that they expect you to come often. Because, whenever you hear a Frenchman say about a place „c’est ma cantine“ he’s in fact talking about his favourite pub or restaurant. „Cuissons“ on the northern fringe of the Marais makes a good candidate for a working day cantine during lunchtime. The food is fresh, it’s cheap, it’s good.
Behind “Cuissons” stands Peter Karam. After having been for years the personal chef of Jean-Paul Gaultier, fashion designer star of the 90′ies, Peter opened what quickly became “the place to eat”.
You sit in a clean, sober environment gazing through large windows as the cars and scooters pass by at arm’s length through tiny Rue Saintonge. They serve their food with a smile here, which is, on workdays, very welcome indeed. And when you check their website, you learn that they hope to become a delivery hub for modern, tasty office food. We’ll see how that’ll work.
Now, foodwise, don’t expect high French cuisine or culinary adventures or anything alike. That’s not the idea of „Cuissons“. The concept plays more on the good and healthy slow fast food register, so to say. You’ll find freshly tossed mesclun salads, lentil mixes, marinated chicken à la minute alongside with slow stuff like braised beef stews or fluffy stockfish purees. The chef can’t hide his Northern African origins, fortunately – all dishes come with a nice Maghreb twist, with cumin, raisins, lemon zest or a whiff of cilantro.
Best of all, „Cuissons“ sports extremely competitive menu prices. You can get fed here for 7 or 8 Euros, maybe 10, and the most expensive dish, the beef stew, comes at 12 Euros. So, you see, there’s quite a few reasons why „Cuissons“ could become your „cantine“ while in Paris.Cuissons 65, rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris +33 (0)1 44 78 96 92 Métro: Oberkampf or Filles de Calvaire